March 30, 2019
March 24, 2019
March 16, 2019
March 11, 2019
San Marco's in Canelli; took 6 years to find but well worth the wait
Michelin star restaurant at a reasonable price. Not so easy to find. Warm atmosphere, fireplace in just the right place, Piedmontese fare, risotto al dente, therefore delicious.
NB; mio marito's bagna cauda - molto buono. Ideal evening out, and awfully romantic.
Piemonte; the secret that needs to be told.
February 17, 2019
Great drive back to Piemonte; little wonder the first gothic novel ever written was set in Italy.
"The Castle of Otranto" - Horace Walpole.
Written in 1764, this book is considered the first gothic novel. You never know what's gong to happen. And like Italy, the environs, uncommonly atmospheric. Of course it was set here.
And I've been there. Years ago we docked in Otranto when sailing from Malta to Lignano Sabbiadoro, via Sicily. Like Piemonte, like every place in Italy; atmospheric.
The old and the new, the comic and the serious, but initially, Walpole lied. In the original preface he suggests it's a manuscript written by an Italian monk in Naples. But then he comes clean, admitting he had written the book. His readers were not amused. Perhaps, in his defense, it was not thought gentlemanly to write novels, especially when you're the son of the first British Prime Minister.
It's frivolous and it's serious, setting the emotional landscape for future horror flicks. The book is a great read. It's gothic and clever. He knew how to write and knew a great deal about history. He wasn't a dilettante, but his aesthetic sensibility was ghoulish.
Warpole was the first person to realize that gothic material was fantastic material for the present, back then in 1764. Shakespeare was an influence, only just coming back into fashion. He'd fallen out for about a 100 years. There are elements of Hamlet. A son haunted by his father's ghost, as well as a streak of comedy, mixing the genres, comical and historical. Again, setting the scene for our modern life.
In other words, what truly comes across in Warpole's novel, and his letters, is a specific tone of irony.
It could have been written by Oscar Wilde, but it was Horace Walpole who wrote, "The world is a tragedy to those who feel but a comedy to those who think."
February 03, 2019
January 31, 2019
Passing through Sanremo; the city of flowers
Sanremo is called "Riviera dei fiori". I've driven by dozens of times, it's gorgeous, dramatically wrapped in glasshouses, full of flowers.
I hadn't been back for years. So I stopped by, spent the night, enjoyed a fish dinner and a cast of characters you only seem to find by the sea.
January 26, 2019
Snow days are great...
...you get to wear allot of clothes, get out the snowblower, really 'feel' the cold as it sprays back into your face, load some more wood into the fire, snuggle, watch the snow continue to cover the driveway, get the snowblower out again, go back inside, load the fire, snuggle...
and dream about spring
Which dessert? Zia Carla's chocolates, Mama Margherita's Amaretto Tort, or the fruit
A little of each...
January 07, 2019
Marco Capra Winery: He not only boasts one of the best beards, but the finest wine and it comes with a game inside!
Just one of the benefits of living in wine country is finding great wine, which seems to happen all the time. All you have to do is drive around...well, of course, I heard about it first, was given a bottle at a dinner, it tasted fantastic, at a fantastic price so I had to drive around and buy some for myself.
From Marco Capra's website:
THE ESTATE
The Estate is located in Santo Stefano Belbo, on the Seirole hill between the Langhe and Monferrato districts. The area’s main resource has always been winegrowing and the particular geological conformation of the land and the area’s microclimate favour the perfect ripening of grapes and the acquisition of typical organoleptic properties.
This is a small, family run estate, the art of winegrowing having been handed down from generation to generation. The quality that distinguishes our wine is determined by our control of the entire production chain, from the vine to the bottle, via processes which respect tradition while promoting the innovation that distinguishes modern estates.The company is currently managed by Marco Capra, who has succeeded in giving the right innovative boost typical of the new generations, while continuing to observe the teachings and experience handed down by his forefathers. The precious consulting skills of the oenologists Dante Scaglione and Daniela Serra is a further guarantee for the production of the very best quality wines
January 01, 2019
Driving to Limone, Piemonte for New Year's family gathering....
...the day was so clear day the Alps looked like cutouts. Monte Rosa is right there...
Heading towards the Maritime Alps, to the left, the twin peaks, the tall twins; Bisalta. Bellissimo....
December 25, 2018
December 23, 2018
Happiness is...Papillons
Gigi and Gaston in the snow in Piemonte, Italy
Colette and Godot in Fountainebleau, France
December 18, 2018
December 08, 2018
November 30, 2018
Never assumed a romantic epiphany would strike a soul like mine...
But it did and immediately I knew he was the one. Who knew we'd be celebrating our 18th wedding anniversary this month and more importantly, however did we simply shift into 'life partner' status.
Not sure, just grateful it seemed to unfold organically. I think this photo was taken in 1999, hanging out in Austria, with the in-laws, back when they lived there.
Then we moved, and moved a few more times, until we found a home.
What a trip, an odyssey even; time flies!
November 15, 2018
Romania, one of several countries benefitting from their EU status. Driving through Transylvania, along the Carpathian's to Bucharest, now a pleasure.
Roads, once a tricky proposition to navigate in Romania, have massively improved. By 2020, fresh, new highways everywhere, all thanks to EU monies.
November 14, 2018
Lady Liberty defies troll tweets
Yesterday the American president took to twitter, the ultimate troll, aiming his dark cloud at France. It was the kind of day to recall how France financed our Revolution, and then gave us such a pretty statue.
I even have a foto, framed, next to our bar, of Lady Liberty in Paris in the courtyard of Bartholdi's studio, 1880.
It reminded me of living in Paris, how many distractions she provided, almost daily. Like the time I walked from our flat on Rue de la Montagne Sainte Genevieve to Rolland Garros. It took almost 2 hours, felt like 20 minutes, I watched a couple of matches, then walked back home.
...always have Paris...
November 08, 2018
November 01, 2018
Off to the Austrian Alps again, from Lake Garda to South Tyrol, one of the prettiest drives; especially this time of year
Drove to Aqua Dome, a favorite and fantastic destination, one of those 4 star wellness spas that restores the body and skin. Yet I always forget how much these people insist on being naked - for Austrians and Germans - the birthday suit is all that is allowed. Celebrating my 55th birthday, it was easy to accept their cultural reality and get into the 'swing' of things, as it were.
A swim suit is worn in the thermal baths, the sulfur and salt baths, but in the spa, and other various thermal pools and jacuzzis - you enter the same way you entered earth - naked.
Aqua Dome is surreal, their selection immense, you have about 20 separate spas to choose from, so it's easy to put away my prudish ways, after about a day I really relax and forget about the fact I'm naked. There's no frills, it's not fancy but the food is fabulous, and the hotel did bring me a sacher tort for breakfast on my birthday - so very Austrian of them.
But really, what a stunning drive. I'm always surprised Americans don't skip the trains and planes and opt for a car rental. Crossing European borders is one of the visual treats, from one culture to the next, in minutes - it's one the pleasures of living on this continent. And it always makes me feel deeply nostalgic.
I suppose I've driven through Brenner pass at least a dozen times, yet every single time I cruise through the alps and drive beneath those bold and blue signs directing you to Innsbruck along the autobahn, I'm suddenly 13 years old again. I'm back in America, I'm watching Dorothy Hamill on ice and Franz Klammer on the snow, it's the '74 Olympics and my mind goes back there, like clockwork.
Such are the cycles of life.
October 17, 2018
October 14, 2018
October 09, 2018
Lunch in Limone, Piemonte; almost always a family affair
Met her 23 yrs ago, think she's even prettier than when we first met.
In fact, nestled amidst the maritime Italian Alps, this idyllic ski village is positively gorgeous.
Zafferano; be careful what you wish for...
My saffron bulbs, bought in Sardinia, in their 3rd year, are really kicking into high gear.
Today's yield, combined with last few days, has already produced far more than last year - and I have 4 more weeks to go!
October 01, 2018
September 30, 2018
August 20, 2018
Driving from Piemonte to the Cote d'Azur
I like to drive. In fact I've penetrated my way, by car, through large swaths of Europe. I've cruised through two, sometimes three countries in one day, from one address to the next. From Rome to Prague, Amsterdam to Bucharest, Geneva to Venice, or longer distances, say, from Sicily to Paris, perhaps adding a ferry or a flight in between if the journey was extra long, like when traveling from Malta to Lyon. Then, a layover's necessary before arriving in Le Lumier.
Either with my husband, or alone, I like to drive. In Europe crossing her borders is so visually absorbing, impressions so vivid, sliding by, exposing her innermost cultural realities. Each entirely unique from the previous via the innocent act of riding from one road to the next, from one flag to another.
I'm always surprised more people don't rent a car when they travel to Europe. Just this past week I've driven from Piemonte to my in-laws near Nice - twice, it's only 3 hours each way and the drive is so pretty, it goes by so quick. I leave the house, drive along the vines that are well on their way here in Piemonte, cross through Hazelnut territory in Cortemelia, through Savona, arriving at the Med, which never disappoints. Then there's Liguria, which is long, e voila, you're in friendly France.
My in-laws are now in their mid 80's, still playing golf and traveling, enjoying life, which is nice because they've earned it.
Probably heading back soon enough...buy hey, next time you're here, think of renting a car, it makes all the difference.
August 12, 2018
battuta al coltello di fassone, or what we call steak tartare
Luv serving this in summer bc it's so simple; salt, pepper and olive oil. Lemon and parmesan aren't really necessary, but why not....
I'm just happy walking thru their door...
My favorite butcher shop/macelleria, is located in Nizze Monferrato, called Vittoio e Loredana. In a world of change, this place hasn't, still packaging their meat with care, same as ever, since 1877.
Italians, like the French, care so deeply for food, and you see it on display, in places like this. Quality as good as any place on the planet.
Piemonte, the secret that needs to be told.
language; the gift that keeps on giving...
My guy and an old friend from Quebec and his sons, their mother is Italian, and amazing.
They each speak 4 language, minimum. Comfortable anywhere, everywhere, multiple passports, elastic minds.
Just happy to watch and be a part of....
August 04, 2018
August 03, 2018
July 25, 2018
My amazing neighbors
I may live in the middle of nowhere but everything appears to be here. Luciano, a neighbor, not only plays a harpsichord; he made it. As well as the salterio.
Nothing like a bit of medieval music before noon. So spiritual, alters the entire mood, as do these Italian artisans.
My amazing neighbors
I may live in the middle of nowhere but everything appears to be here. Luciano, a neighbor, not only plays a harpsichord; he made it. As well as the salterio.
Nothing like a bit of medieval music before noon. So spiritual, alters the entire mood, as do these Italian artisans.
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